Let's remember, th
e recent history of Vietnam includes being passed from colonist to invader, back to colonist and then being invaded again and sent into civil war. This has all happened in the 70 years since the start of World War II. To say that they are a forgiving people is a massive understatement.The generation of men and women who fought for the VietCong against the US Army are now part of a thriving capitalistic culture. Despite having 30 years of armed conflict with the US, they dress like Americans, idealise American brands and use the US Dollar as commonly as their own currency, the Dong. They just don't do begrudgery like we do in Ireland!
Landing in Hanoi from Singapore was always going to be a culture shock. I had almost forgotten how chaotic Asian cities can be. 4 lanes of motorbikes going in each direction with each pair going in opposite direction. Try linking your fingers together like you're saying the Our Father... This multi-directional mess is how one-way streets work in Hanoi.
After a few days in the smog of Hanoi, we went to see the Unesco World Herit
age site of Halong Bay. Unfortunately, the masses of diesel-powered cruises have almost totally destroyed this natural wonder. What should have been a two-thousand-island archipelago was hidden under a grey haze of smog.Further south in Hoi An, we were relieved to find people who were friendly for the sake
of being friendly. Kids happy to play ball with someone with white skin and locals smiling just because you take the time to say 'hello'. Its a lovely little town, with an abundance of tailors (damage done!) and great food.
A brief sick-stop in Nha Trang and we were off to the capital of the south. Renamed
Ho Chi Minh City, but known to all and sundry as Saigon. Its a great city with plenty of energy, but more space to walk around and explore. Here, the Cu Chi Tunnels are an amazing network of 200km of underground living space built from the 40's to the 70's. They've widened a small portion of the tunnels so Westerners can fit in and have a look! The original tunnels were absolutely minuscule so as to prevent entry/attack by French, Japanese or US soldiers.
A must-see on anyone's agenda for Saigon is the War Remembrance Museum. A gripping and shocking account of the US-Vietnam War, and the fall out for everyone involved in the use of Agent Orange. Decades on, children and grandchildren are still being born with deformities in the US as well as Vietnam. Next stop Cambodia, where man's inhumanity to man is as recent and probably more inexplicable.
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