
Crossing the border from Bolivia to the Atacama Desert was an important step towards sea level. It's been a month since we've seen the ocean and we were very keen to get the heart-rate back to a reasonable level ASAP, without the need for mate de coca.
San Pedro de Atacama was a haven for a few days to sit still (after the 3 days in the jeep through Bolivia). We shouldn't have been surprised to find that the heat was insane most of the day - all the locals criss-cross the street to constantly walk in the most shaded spots along the streets. Cactii, dust-storms and signs declaring "water is gold" satisfied our need for the desert cliche.
My mother would be proud of our new tradition... 17 hours on a bus tends to whizz by if you get stuck into the Chilean red wine! Next pit-stop was La Serena, an old colonial city with a great observatory. The obervatory was slick. We saw the southern cross, a comet and the moons and rings of Saturn. No sightings of the rings around Uranus, unfortunately.
We'd been told Santiago was "OK but no great shakes". I'm glad to report that we defied this by thoroughly enjoying the capital for a couple of days, wandering the city, finding weird buildings, loads of graffiti and viewing the city from lofty swimming pools at Parque Metropolitana.
Some notable differences between Chile and Bolivia:
- On the serene bus to San Pedro, we spent all of the trip
in our seats, as opposed to the "Bolivian levitation trick"
- When trying to cross the road in Chile, drivers slow down and wave you across. In Bolivia, the "bonus point system" is strictly adhered to (Gringos = double).
- Its easy to be a millionaire in Chile. I can safely say this is the first time I've ever withdrawn 150,000 from an ATM.
- Fiona "might even trust the street-meat" in Chile.
Suffice to say, Chile is a fancy-dan version of Latin America. Its very European and if it wasn't for the tall red beacon walking alongside me, I could blend in with the locals.